Aquatic biological filtration

Pat-Sparkler
Clarify water & remove suspended particles.

Pat-Sparkler purpose is to clarify and remove suspended particles.

Pat-Sparkler is specially formulated to remove suspended particles such as silt, clay, faeces, diatoms, sludge, heavy metals, algae's, plankton's, etc. from the water and assists in the mechanical and biological filtration to perform at its optimum level.

Pat-Sparkler can be use for large ponds, lakes, golf course ponds and other water bodies which are heavily laden with suspended particles.

Pat-Sparkler is made from natural occurring organic base and it is non-toxic and biodegradable and is stable indefinitely in solution.

Applications: (Aquarium use) Apply 1 drop per gallon everyday until water turns clear, if the water is extremely cloudy due to suspended particles, double the dosage. For maintenance, apply once a week and when changing water. Packing Available in 40 ML and 500 ML Treatment Capacity 40 ML treats 800 imperial gallons (3,600 liters)

Aquatic & Aquarium Tips
Beyond the Basics of CO2:
Using a Compressed Gas System

"CGA" stands for "Compressed Gas Association," which is the recognized standard organization for compressed gas. "CGA-320" is the standard for compressed CO2 equipment.
A CO2 set-up: 5-pound steel tank, regulator, solenoid, needle valve and pH controller. The solenoid and pH controller are not necessary items.

Do Planted Tanks Require CO2? Beautiful aquatic plants growth depends on lighting--with low to moderate lighting, adding CO2 is not necessary.

The yeast method is inexpensive to set up but requires more maintenance than using a compressed gas tank of CO2. When the CO2 level in the water gets up well past 40 or 50 ppm, it will cause distress to fishes.

CO2 is only a problem for fishes if you add too much to the water. A good level for plants is about 20 to 30 ppm. CO2 doesn't stress fishes until the level gets to be about 50 ppm (parts per million).

For the compressed gas method, you need: A compressed gas tank with a CGA-320 valve, a gas pressure regulator made to fit a CGA-320 tank valve, a needle or metering valve, some airline tubing, an injector, mixing chamber, super-fine airstone, powerhead or canister filter.

Sellers of compressed gas tanks will be familiar with the CGA numbering system and many aquarium stores sell compressed gas tanks and pressure regulators--the regulator is used to maintains a steady usable low pressure on the gas line, an inexpensive model costing $30 will be adequate sufficient for aquaticscape.

The function of the regulator is to regulates the gas pressure on the working gas line by converting the high pressure of the gas inside the CO2 tank (about 600 to 900 psi) to about 10 to 30 psi. However, it does not limit the flow rate of gas through the gas line, hence, a needle valve also called a "metering valve" is required to limits the rate of flow.

This is important for two reasons. First, it allows you to adjust the gas flow rate with more precision than you can with a regulator. Second, it limits the maximum flow rate so that CO2 cannot flow too quickly through the system.

A fact about gas pressure regulators is that when the gas tank gets near empty, the low side pressure goes up. The pressure in the gas tank will remain the same until it is nearly empty, then the pressure begins to drop as more gas leaves the tank.

When the tank pressure drops, the regulator cannot regulate the output pressure as well, and the low pressure on the output side of the valve increases.

This could result in an increased flow rate of CO2, which could put too much CO2 into your aquarium too quickly. Therefore, the needle valve prevents that from happening. It is critical that you adjust the regulator so that the low pressure is high enough that the needle valve is limiting and controlling the rate of flow.

It would be hard to hurt your fish with carbon dioxide
(CO2) using a yeast fermentation bottle and you only
require two or three bottles to maintain good CO2 levels
in a 92-gallon aquarium with about 20 ppm CO2.

With a fully filled CO2 tank, most of the CO2 is compressed into a liquid state inside the tank, and only the upper part of the tank contains CO2 in gas form. As CO2 gas is released from the top of the tank, more of the liquid CO2 evaporates to gas inside the tank, and the tank pressure remains constant. Eventually, there is no more liquid CO2 in the tank.

At that point, as CO2 continues to be released from the tank, the pressure in the tank finally starts to drop. And when there is no more liquid left in the tank, there will still be enough gas to keep running your system for days or weeks--depending on how much CO2 your aquarium uses.

You need to check the regulator high-pressure gauge every now and then to see if the high pressure is dropping. That might sound like a lot of work, but it is a lot less work than refreshing a yeast bottle every month of so. How often you will need to refill a CO2 tank depends on the size of the CO2 tank, and how quickly your aquarium uses and sheds CO2.

A 150-gallon tank, which has a wet/dry filter that sheds CO2 very quickly, a 10-pound CO2 tank lasts about two months. On another aquarium that is smaller and set up to not shed CO2 gas quickly, a 5-pound tank lasts about 18 months.

You can feed the CO2 it into the intake of a canister filter or power-head or use a fine air-stone. CO2 is more efficiently absorbed into the water with a mixing chamber and you can find these at stores that sell CO2 equipment for planted aquaria.

To set the flow rate, start out with about 20 psi on the regulator, and adjust the needle valve for a flow of about 30 bubbles per minute. Measure the CO2 level in the water after about six hours and adjust the flow rate. Repeat measurement and adjustments as necessary. Once you get things set, you probably will not have to fiddle with the settings for months.

You do not need a bubble counter or pH controller if you run the CO2 at a constant steady rate 24 hours per day, seven days per week, you will have a relatively steady CO2 level. During the day, the level will decline as the plants photosynthesize, and it will rise again overnight but the changes is small and negligible.

To save a little on CO2, you can attach a solenoid between the regulator and the needle valve, and plug the solenoid into the aquarium light timer. Then the CO2 will flow only when the plants photosynthesize. Because you are not slowly building up the CO2 level overnight from the depleted level of the day before, you will need to run the CO2 at a slightly faster flow rate to get the CO2 level up quickly once the lights turn on.

This keeps the CO2 level stable as evidenced by the pH level that will vary within about 0.2 units. Your plants will not care which of the three "control" methods you use: 24/7 operation, light timer or pH controller. The plants will just love the CO2, and your fish will be safe and happy in your flourishing aquatic garden.